Wednesday, March 10

gaultier, chloe, and CDG

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Favorite collection of this season? I think so. It was SO MUCH STUFF SO MUCH GOING ON. Accordion pleated florals, stripes and gingham, South African baubles, egyptian-esque headdresses, trench coats at every single length, thigh high floral boots, berets, and fabrics that looked like they came straight out of Moscow. This overwhelming rush of global references (some cliche, I must admit) was perfect. It was so colorful, tights and hair pieces. I really appreciate a collection with a bunch of beautiful ridiculous textures, especially in these patterns and rich colors. A+ forever.
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I LIKED IT. I can't believe I'd ever even think of liking a Chloe collection ever again with Hannah Macgibbon designing it, but I really liked it. The collection did have some really serious flaws. Suede fringe? Black leather sack? Uh, this thing? But overall this collection was just so warm with it's caramel colors and layered overcoats and camel knits. It was my favorite American 70's sportswear, and the whole collection looked so fucking Chloe. Back to it's roots, obviously. Although I enjoyed Paulo's bright, geometric patterned Chloe years I'm glad to see Hannah Macgibbon made a nice collection that I liked. I can't help put it into a context where it's stands beside Hannah's other work, and against her previous design endeavors at this house it looks a bit boring. On it's own I think this collection is delightfully minimalist, it's simplicity makes it beautiful. But, along with her other work I can't see Hannah ever stepping away from her beige and brown and boxy coat fetish.
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I'm not a CDG girl. I probably never will be, but have always appreciated Rei's whole initiative with fashion design. It's not that I don't like CDG, it's just that I would never be the kind of person who could pull this clothing off. Tavi and Arabelle, two girls who believe Rei to be, literally, GOD are her devoted lovers and followers. I really love CDG as a label, but if I had the $$$ to buy designer clothes I wouldn't even touch Rei's work. This collection wasn't really her strongest, I don't think. I haven't memorized every collection she's done (trust me some designers I have) There were her pillowy silhouettes, bulges at the hips and waist and bust creating a sloppy figure. Dark charcoal, black, white, and a red plaid were her color/fabric choices. Ripped coats with large black buttons, mixed plaids, slashed dresses with stuffing coming out were all expected. I wasn't totally loving anything. Kind of simple and predictable, for CDG.

10 comments:

Taj said...

I really agree with you on the CDG thing. she has really cool ideas and an amazing aesthetic but I would never really wear anything shes made. (except for the blanket coats from Fall2009, I would wear the hell out of those!!!)
great reviews!

Taj said...
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Anonymous said...

where did you find your chloe pictures? they don't look like style.com and the quality is just really nice.

hazel said...

style.com! in the past i spent more time and looked at pictures from V magazine and WWD but now it's just style.com, always ;)

kasmslo said...

i really liked cdg this season. the padding reminds me of (bloated, almost) artificial intestines. really interests me how she combined that allusion with destructed details/elements. did you see the shoes also? they remind me of fins or something anemone-esque.

there is something always mystical and transcendent about rei's work. even when the collection is very simple and subtle in its message, as this one.

Anonymous said...

Uh, the figure's meant to be "sloppy". That's kind of the point.

hazel said...

I know it's meant to be sloppy, I didn't mean for it to sound negative. Sloppy isn't necessarily bad, it's just not my taste.

hazel said...
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Emilie said...

I agree in a lot of ways. It's interesting but not wearable. Rei (I feel weird calling her that ha) produces artistic pieces that make you think and reevaluate fashion, but that's not where I would put my money in terms of what I would wear.

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